Enchanted Things to Experience in the French Capital
a dream visit to paris
Week two of our tour of France brings us to Paris. A place whose particular wonder is difficult to capture in words. Perhaps Paris is better left to the realm of feeling.
In the Paris of our dreams, time stands still. Travel is glamorous. Tourism is cultural. Time is ample and we can luxuriate in the moment. There isn’t pressure to see things or to do things. The places we selected take us there, to that quiet place that’s less concerned with doing and more concerned with feeling. They are places of magic and enchantment and wonder.
We approached compiling our guide from this space. For the most part, these are places we have been ourselves, but a few are places we dream of going once we are traveling again. Until then, we’ll be taking ourselves there in our imagination. After all, if Paris is a feeling, can’t we evoke it anytime we like?
2017
arts
Musée Bourdelle
This intimate museum far from the well-traveled path beautifully displays the work of the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle as if momentarily frozen in time. Hundreds of Bourdelle’s creations are included in the collection, spread out artistically between the museum’s rooms. The most enchanting of all? Bourdelle’s studio which is positively magical.
18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle, 75015 Paris
Bourdelle’s Studio at the Musée Bourdelle
Musée Gustave Moreau
For another intimate view into an artist’s life and work, consider the Musée Gustave Moreau, dedicated to the work of the 19th century painter. Moreau himself conceived of the museum, which is located in his family home, in the apartments on the first floor.
14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld, 75009 Paris
Palais Garnier
To be transported to another world altogether, visit the Palais Garnier. Built at the command of Emporer Napoleon III by the architect Charles Garnier from 1861-1875, it was Paris’s only opera house until 1989, when the Opéra Bastille opened. There are two ways to experience the awe of this space: in the day, when you can tour the building while the auditorium is empty, or in the evening, while attending a performance. To imagine what has been seen and heard and felt and worn at this grand opera house over these nearly 150 years all the while taking in the beauty of the space is to be suspended in wonder.
Place de l'Opéra, 75009 Paris
Musée National Picasso-Paris
Despite being larger and more well-traveled, the Picasso Museum in Paris is a remarkable experience and a rich look into the world and work of Picasso. A prolific artist, Picasso created an estimated 50,000 works of art in his lifetime, and the 5,000 piece collection in this museum gives both life to this figure and a view into Picasso’s immense creativity. The building itself, a hôtel particulier built in the late 1600s, is also a feast for the eyes.
5 Rue de Thorigny, 75003 Paris
Musée de la Vie Romantique
Slip into the 19th century intellectual salons of the painter Ary Scheffer in this pink romantic period hôtel particulier at the foot of Montmartre. As you walk in the rose-filled gardens and stroll through the art collection housed in the main house, imagine Frédéric Chopin and George Sand, Eugène Delacroix and Franz Liszt gathering together to debate topics on the leading edge of art and thought all those years ago.
16 Rue Chaptal, 75009 Paris
Musée de l'Orangerie
To step into a Monet painting, visit the Orangerie, where eight magnificent large scale oil-on-canvas panels wrap organically around two rooms, leaving the viewer entranced. A further touch of magic is introduced by the fact that Monet himself was involved in the design and installation of his artworks in this grand space.
Jardin Tuileries, 75001 Paris
A wall in Bourdelle’s studio
A spirit of timelessness pervades at Musée Bourdelle
gardens
Jardin du Luxembourg
For an infusion of sunshine and greenery in the heart of the Left Bank, the grounds of Jardin du Luxembourg, in Paris’s 6th arrondissement, provide a calm respite from a buzzing city. The Medici Fountain is especially lovely.
75006 Paris
Parc des Buttes Chaumont
The Parc des Buttes Chaumont, located on the outskirts of Paris in the 19th arrondissement, is a land of unexpected wonders. Both a part of and distinct from the city, the park offers surreal delights wherever the eye looks from bridges and grottos, to waterfalls and willows. If you are feeling adventurous, travel by bike from the center of Paris.
1 Rue Botzaris, 75019 Paris
The statue of Vertumne, God of the Seasons, by Francois Barois in the Jardin des Tuileries
Jardin des Tuilieries
Although quite on the well-trodden path, the Jardin des Tuileries is enchanting, with wild flowers and fountains, statues and scenery. A place to flâneur, take a slow stroll on a sunny day from the Louvre to the Place de la Concorde through the beautiful gardens. With the Louvre behind you, the Eiffel Tower to your left, you can’t help but feel like you are connected to the beating heart of Paris with each step.
Place de la Concorde, 75001 Paris, France
The Eiffel Tower from the Tuileries Gardens
Diana the Huntress by Louis Auguste Leveque at the Jardin des Tuileries
Jardin des Tuileries in the warm glow of the sun
coffee & pastry
Sébastien Gaudard
With two shops in Paris, Sébastien Gaudard is making the old-world pâtisserie modern. From the traditional pastry offering to the the decor and the ambiance, a visit to Sébastien Gaudard feels timeless. Cap a walk at the Jardin des Tuileries with an almond croissant and a café au lait at the Rue des Pyramides shop. The tart au citron is also notable.
1 Rue des Pyramides, 75001 Paris
Fragments
In a city known for its pastries, coffee can occupy a less central place. Not at Fragments, an espresso bar tucked down a quiet side street in Le Marais, which serves great coffee. Some say it’s the best cappuccino in Paris. Combine the coffee with the vibe—modern meets rustic meets warm—and all of the ingredients are there for a cozy spot to enjoy a coffee in this chic Parisian neighborhood.
6 Rue des Tournelles, 75003 Paris
Du Pain et des Idées
One of Paris’s most beloved bakeries, Du Pain et des Idées is a traditional Parisian boulangerie in every sense—the food is displayed artfully, the facade is beautiful, the line is long, and the pastries are excellent. The pistachio and chocolate escargot is a speciality.
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris
Du Pain et des Idées
dining
La Fontaine de Mars
This old-world Parisian bistro is as classic and timeless and warm as the food it serves. With its checkered tablecloths and tiled floors, La Fontaine de Mars has that quintessential bistro chic, elegant and informal at once. For dessert, the floating island is memorable.
129 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris
Clown Bar
For a snapshot of Paris today, and for a view into the food of Paris tomorrow, consider Clown Bar, an eclectic, unexpected culinary experience featuring creative small plates and a large selection of natural wines. The clown-inspired decor pays homage to the spot’s history as a hangout for the Cirque d’Hiver, Paris’s winter circus, just a few doors down.
114 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris
Joséphine chez Dumonet
And back again to the past, Joséphine chez Dumonet is another old world bistro with classic Parisian food done well. The beef Bourgignon and Grand Marnier soufflé, which should be ordered at the start of your meal, are both exceptional.
117 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris
La Fontaine de Mars, image via Google Maps
music & cocktails
Cravan
Far from the crowds in the 16th arrondissement, this cozy cocktail bar is part of the new wave of restaurants in Paris creatively expanding upon the city’s rich culinary tradition with new ideas. The cocktails are modern, the decor is beautiful, the fare is traditional, and the pieces come together to form something memorable.
17 Rue Jean de la Fontaine, 75016 Paris
Caveau de la Huchette
For jazz, consider Caveau de la Huchette, a decades-old underground jazz cave. When you’re not busy dancing, imagine Count Basie and Sidney Bechet playing right before your eyes.
5 Rue de la Huchette, 75005 Paris
Le Très Particulier
Climb to the top of Montmartre and open the gate to turn into a beautiful, tree-lined property. Take the path to the bar—Le Très Particulier at the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, which will delight you in every sense. Enjoy your cocktail in the beautiful setting—plush velvet chairs and black and white tiles set amidst plants and garden-inspired wallpaper.
Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, 23 Avenue Junot, 75018 Paris
image via Cravan
and more
old-world shopping in search of enchanted objects at Galerie Vivienne 5 Rue de la Banque, 75002 Paris
chocolate pralines at Debauve & Gallais 30 Rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris
escargot at Aux Crus de Bourgogne 3 Rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris
spices at Épices Roellinger 51 bis Rue Sainte-Anne, 75002 Paris
warm chocolate chip cookies at Mamiche 45 Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris
perfume & toiletries at L'Officine Universelle Buly 6 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris
books and magic at Shakespeare & Company 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris
What are your favorite places in Paris? What magical spots have you discovered? Where do you dream to go? What do you dream to experience in this incredible city? We’re so excited to hear from you. And if you have travel pictures, we’d love to see them! Share on instagram with #elephantineontour.